Where the earth is decorated
Unlike old Berlin, in Albisola the visitor finds two cities in one. In
this case, however, it is an accident of history: there is Albissola
Marina, spelt with a double "s", and Albisola
Superiore, with a single "s". Back in the 16th century
they were separates Communes, and the differences in spelling is thought
to stem from an incorrect transcription. And there is also Albisola
Capo, now part of Albisola Superiore. It all began in the 2nd century
BC with a citadel, a primitive prehistoric fort which stood on a hilltop
above the modern-day railway line. Then came the Romans, who named the
place "Alba Docilia": the ruins of an Imperial villa can still
be seen today near the town's railway station.
The city began its life as a "Borgo Basso" in 1400 and soon
after became the birthplace of the legendary pope "Giulio II della
Rovere", patron to great artists such as Bramente, Raphael and Michelangelo.
Art is in the air around Albisola: the area has been the home
of ceramics for centuries, and the beautifully coloured works
of art produced by local craftsmen have won renown the world over. There
is something magical about the ceramics made in Albisola: is enough
to stroll along the Artists' promenade
which a group of Italian artists (G. Capogrossi, R.Crippa, L.Fontana,
A.Jom, L.Sassu and others) decorated in 1963 with a special ceramic
mosaic. Not forgetting to move on the enchanting "Piazzetta della
Concordia" in Albissola Marina and to visit the "Museo Manlio
Trucco", entirely dedicated to ceramics, in Albisola Superiore.
Finally, potter around the craft shops hidden among the lanes of Albisola
Superiore and Pozzo Garitta in Albissola marina, two corners of the
Medieval world filled with ancient kilns and painters' and artisans'
studios.
Cooks and colours
In 1589, a lawyer from Albisola by the name of Zuffo drew up and signed
the "Capitula artis Figolorum loco Albisola", statues governing
the art of ceramicist.
The artistic traditions which make Albisola a world capital of the art
of ceramics are now over 500 years old. The town reached the height
of its prowess between the 17th and the 18th centuries, when local maestros
opened ceramics workshops all over Europe, and the flour mills in the
Ellera valley inland of Albisola began milling stones to make paints.
Today Albisola's vases, plates, tiles and ornaments are still the pride
and joy of this town on the Riviera delle Palme. And those who appreciate
the real beauty of a winter on the Riviera visit Albisola before Christmas
in search of traditional ceramics figures of their nativity scenes;
the "macachi" e "donnette" (in the local dialect)
bring joy and colour into homes where this ancient Italian customs is
still maintained.
Aristocratic residences
But Albisola was home to more than craftsmen: it once had a sizeable
aristocratic community. While they had no cause to work, they certainly
knew how to embellish and beautify their town. The last doge of Genoa,
Francesco Maria Della Rovere, commissioned a villa which took 14 years
to build (from 1739 to 1753), transforming a 15th century building into
a sumptuous palace, decorated with elaborate coloured stuccowork and
local majolica ware and surrounded by a garden complete with fountains,
statues and staircase. Known as "Villa Gavotti" today, his
former residence stands in Albisola Superiore. While Albissola Marina
has good reason to be proud of its "Villa Faraggiana", an
18th century residence set in similar sumptuous grounds with no end
of trees and fountains. The Villa boasts a unique gallery, its floor
tiled in blue enamelled majolica, similar to Portuguese azulejos, and
furnishings by the famous British cabinet maker E.T.Peters, who also
worked on Genoa's palazzo Reale in the 19th century.
